
One of
my first posts was a review of my favorite restaurant, Horizons. My feelings have not changed. The entrees, close enough to incredible, could quiet any carnivore. The desserts, good for what they are, but in need of a finer tuning.
I'm always surprised at how crowded it gets at Horizons, even on weekdays. It's not easy to drop in for dinner unannounced. Even when friends moan about this or how expensive it is, I encourage them to a) THINK AHEAD and b) MAKE MORE MONEY. I always find that the prices are reasonable, considering the quality of food that you are getting and the imaginative detail involved in each plate. It's art that ends up in your stomach. If you want to bitch about the bill, go to Gianna's.
I've always avoided beets for reasons unknown. To nip that in the bud and convince myself to appreciate the humble beet for what it is, I started with the beet salad. Alas, the Red Leaf salad, a seasonal favorite of mine, was not on the menu. The pistachio vinaigrette that absolutely MAKES it, however, was served on the beet salad. I enjoyed each component of the salad but could not bring myself to delve into the yellow beets. I was expecting them to be red and didn't identify them at first. After a few tastes, I could not get into it. That's just a personal thing and if you love beets, this would likely be a good choice for you, as it was fresh, colorful, and carefully composed.
The winter menu is in full swing at Horizons, and if you're looking for hearty with your healthy, they've got it in the form of a seitan-based shepherd's pie or the pan-roasted tofu with winter vegetables. I almost never order the tofu when I'm here. I zero straight in on the tempeh dish they are serving. I have never had better tempeh, as most chefs don't know what to do with it. My garbanzo-crusted tempeh with golden lentils and a smoked potato stuffed piquillo on top is crafted so that every forkful is a chapter of flavor. The crust was crisp and lended a firm, meaty texture. The lentil puree, while salty, was a satisfying accompaniment, drizzled with a tangy lemon aoli and bits of olive. The only complaint that I have here? The food is always too salty. Every time. I happen to crave saltiness and welcome it, as vegan food gets a rap for being bland and unseasoned. But a minor cutback on the sodium would fix that.
For dessert, the vegan choices span all tastes. Meyer lemon cheesecake would have been a sure thing, but the sticky toffee pudding with banana bourbon ice cream could go either way. I wanted something light and refreshing, however, so I went with the eggnog ice cream. Presented in a martini glass, the sweet, cinnamon-y scoops of soy cream didn't have the creamy mouth feel of regular ice cream and had an icy texture. The flavor was there, though, an intense ode to nog.
Horizons, 611 S. 7th St., 215-923-6117,
www.horizonsphiladelphia.com