Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Veg Out: Matyson


A mother-daughter outing to the Flower Show involved us barreling through enough out-of-town senior citizens that sufficient energy was expended for lunch. Or s'lunch, rather, as we were nearing mid-afternoon. We briefly considered raiding the Swiss Pastry Shoppe to replace the lingering scent of hydrangeas with eau de chocolat, but ventured next door to Matyson instead.

The Wild Mushroom Hoagie seemed out of place on Matyson's contempo-American menu. Did this mean that I should look away from the fried goat cheese and bitter greens salad? Did there have to be mozzarella on the "hoagie"? Why not gruyere or the aforementioned goat cheese? Should I shed a tear for any vegans that might hope to lunch here? Snippets of conversation included:

"No, mom, I am not breaking vedge for the burger."

"Our quiche of the day has bacon."

Mushrooms and spinach were sauteed into a wonderfully wilted pile atop mozzarella and pesto on a sesame seed roll. Wild. Can a hoagie ever be sophisticated? Yes, yes, it can. Swap out the mozz with a creamier cheese, and I'd drop dime here again. It was very similar to the Ugly American's Mushroom Po Boy, although I'd give UA my heart.

Did we eventually dessert with the Swiss? Nay, we split the Lemonade Poundcake w/ Blueberry Ice Cream, thinking it would complement the balmy weather mood. It was nothing memorable. BYOB desserts are almost never worth it. It's always the pubs and bruncherie cafes that nail the apres-meal.

Matyson, 37 S. 19th St., www.matyson.com

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