Veg Out: Summer Lunch

Almanac Market has at least one vegan sandwich daily, and usually a tomato & mozzarella baguette on hand as well. This week they had tofu egg salad. It wasn't that exciting, but hey, it's egg salad. What do you want?

Summer Soups? I gotchu.

Or how about the Greek Fest? It's on until Sunday. After my late-lunch Veggie Platter (3 veggies and a Greek salad, $8), I won't require further sustenance for at least 3 days.

Vegan Rhapsody: Welcome to the Coffeehouse

Give coffeehouses their due. While most of their fare is run-of-the-mill, some continue to turn out surprisingly worthwhile eats. Java has the labneh sandwich, an open-faced half-wich with creamy yogurt spread. At Canvas, there’s a veggie sausage, pepper, & egg breakfast pita. Chapterhouse, which makes a killer grilled cheese, took me out again with their Vegan Wrap. Expecting a bland veggie & hummus roll-up, I was more than pleased to detect marinated tofu, an assortment of veg, and a side of vegan tzatziki. The tzatziki ranked up there among vegan condiments. It was very similar to the aioli that comes with the Abbaye’s frites.



I was again confounded to discover waffles, spinach croissants, and croissant french toast at Cafe Ole in Old City. They do have the standard vegan wraps & salads, but the breakfasting is sincere. Somebody spent serious time constructing my waffle ($6 and change).

Spruce Street Espresso doesn't really have food, beyond some pastry. But they excel at what they do have--coffee is french-pressed, iced coffee is brewed double-strength, and the Brie Baguettes are simple and satisfying. After tasting almost every available brew in the city (it's my job), I will look you straight in your internet eyes and promise you, this is the Stanley Cup of coffee. I was once a believer in the $8 Jamaican Blue Mountain at Ray's, but that's just for experience. Spruce E is for real. Someone from the Coffeegeek messageboard (that's right...) says it better than I do:

"Are there any other coffee shops in Philly at this moment in time who only have 6 items on the menu, the largest size is 12 oz to-go, 10 oz ceramic, no single or triple, no small medium or large, no electric brewer but only pressed coffees, no house blend but only single origins, and no sandwich menu to fall back on?"

Here, another quote from the boards regarding Philly's espresso, which is simply for our amusement:

"So I gave the Philadelphia Java company another try today, as well as a place on 7th or 8th and South St.. Both were horrible. They were running the exact same equipment: San Marco 2 groups, and a grinder with a SUPER crappy built in tamper. I watched my shots being pulled at both places, and they were blond in about 5 seconds. The streams of espresso bowed inward almost immediately. A bad scene..."

Chapterhouse Cafe, 9th & Bainbridge
Cafe Ole, 147 N 3rd St
Spruce Street Espresso, 11th & Spruce

Veg Out: Cafe Estelle

Not many coffeeshops try to be restaurants by adding dinner service. That's usually due to lack of space and the missing kitchen. The new-ish Cafe Estelle doesn't seem to have that problem, with a cavernous dining room and spacious kitchen in the back. Bread, cheese, meat, and soda are all made on-site. They even do their own home-brewing, and offered me complimentary scotch ale. Props, props, and more props. They have a large parking lot at their disposal, and a built-in customer base of the loft dwellers who reside in their building. All systems go, right?

I want to say yes.

While still in the early stages (they've hardly been open a week), Estelle is a genuine effort. Service is attentive and pleasant. The room itself is too open to be intimate or cozy, like an art museum cafeteria, but the decor is thoughtful. The menu is small enough that it could be fatiguing, especially if you live in the building. They plan on rotating it regularly, and I strongly suggest that the first dish to go away should be the Vegan Barley Risotto.

The $17 plate should be knocked down to $12 if they do plan on keeping it, because it tastes like something I would make at home. It could also do with a second round of seasoning. There was a single leek hidden under my maple glazed tofu, and it was impossible to cut. Normally I bring a power saw with me for dinner, but not that night. I made a show of trying, looked helplessly at the servers, and then tried again. I gave up, rather than trouble them for a sharper knife for a solitary leek. The tofu was like the pre-packaged kind that is already marinated. The risotto, too, tasted like it came from the Whole Foods rice aisle (Near East, anyone?). If I had cooked this myself, I would have been fine with it. I am no chef.

Desserts held more promise. Given Estelle's baking talents (the bread was warm and house-made), I expected my Strawberry Rhubarb Pie to be a hit. I'm a pie purist, and what they gave me was not a slice of pie. It was presented beautifully, sure, with a scoop of berry sorbet and a drizzle of vanilla syrup. The round tart had a mushy filling that was cobbler-esque. It was passable as a tart, but they need to call it that. Pie people will be put off.

There's a review over at the Clog, and it appears that the omni plates went over much better. The Triple Cream Crepe looks pretty special.

Cafe Estelle, 444 N 4th St

This Could Easily Be A Coffee Blog

[photo credit: max buten]

Book It: Great Chefs Cook Vegan

While on the theme of star chefs, Great Chefs Cook Vegan hits shelves this summer, but not before author Linda Long previews it at the American Vegan Garden Party. More details are at the site, but it doesn't look half as slick as the vegan bonfire siestas I attend regularly. Sorry to damp on the buzz.

The book itself will feature recipes from Thomas Keller, Jean-George Vongerichten, Eric Ripert, Charlie Trotter, and others. Name dropppppp. Linda Long also happens to be a very capable vegan writer, photographer, and pro foodie. Great Chefs is the read I've been waiting for (although I'll probably be elated when Skinny Bitch III comes out).

Veg Out: 10 Arts

The menus for Eric Ripert's 10 Arts are not up and jumping just yet, but from last night's press reception I gathered that there will be at least one offering marked V., a grilled vegetable panini with fresh mozzarella. As simple as that sounds, I imagine it will be executed perfectly with carefully-chosen ingredients, because that's Ripert's main deal. Cocktails were exceptional; the Eakins' Elixir of Stolichnaya Ohranj vodka, blood orange puree, and Grand Marnier was something I could see in my hand again.

Check out my post & pics from the bash over at the Clog.

Vegan Donut Diaries

You look like a Dunkin' Donut. You cost like a Vegan Treat. You're less sweet than the original and I feel half as gross eating you. I know you were still designed specifically for half-dead vegans who never eat vegetables, but I don't mind you. I really don't.

You know why, though? Because, it's time to shut up about cupcakes.

Available at Govinda's on Thursdays, before they sell out.

Bad Vegan: The Elvis With Fakin' Bacon

Way to spit on ol' El Rey by remaking his namesake sandwich for vegans. Red Hook Coffee has worked Fakin' Bacon into their menu, with vegan BLTs, egg & Fakin' bagels, grilled cheese & Fakin', and yes--the Elvis--a major indulgence of banana, peanut butter, honey, and those overly-salty protein strips, grilled to fuck. I like Red Hook, understand. I will probably order this sandwich at least once in my life. Doesn't make the love real.

Every now and then there's a time for the soy whatever.

Somewhere in my freezer, there is a box of faux bacon that I haven't the heart to insert into recipes. Even though I'm on-board with new food technology and like to rave about what vegan products exist, I stick with real food most of the time.

You can always skip the strips and do like Peanut Butter Boy does. His Double Decker Peanut Butter Sandwich is made with two kinds of jelly, two types of peanut butter, and twice the bread. Nothing fake about that.

My favorite nut butters right now? The raw spreads from Artisana will make you feel like a saint.

Veg Out: Festivus

I started out in my nabe with the Italian Market festival, where free string cheese, skewered papaya, and music-blasting, street-blocking madness reigned hard. I ventured over to the Old City Sidewalk Stroll, which was a big, fat nothing, as expected, and hopped on the 5 bus. The driver made me smile more than once.

After shying away from the Kissing Booth and leafing through the Dead End Kids of Port Richmond at a bookstore table, I had an art-kid coma at the Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby and Trenton Ave. Arts Festival. The only way I could ameliorate my mood was through a soy hot dog at the Viva Las Vegans truck.


The dog was a wonderful mess, a masterpiece from a man and his accent, who instructed me to come back for dessert. I meant to, but then I ran into vegan cookies. Pennsylvania's TreeVitalize program was selling bags of chocolate chip and donating the proceeds, so I fell into that. I was drawn over to Baked, a new micro-bakery in Fishtown that makes vegan cupcakes and cookies. They take orders and don't have a storefront, but their kitchen is on Susquehanna Ave., which tugged at my heart and set me up with some cinnamon raisins. Baked had the better product, naturally, with the addition of plump golden raisins in their batter. I don't even like cupcakes or cookies much, for that matter, but I can tell you what's what. Not to mention that it makes me happy to know there are at least two vegan bakers near my old grounds.

I know I've been a real bitch lately. But those GIANT CUPPIES! VEGANCUPCAKES!! PINK FROSTINGS$)(! CUPCAKERYyyyyY OHMYYUMM POWER TAKE OVER THE WORLD WITH MY EARTH BALANCE CAKE!! girls are like, somehow, worse.

I reject that world.

Existentialist Question: Okay Sandwiches Are No Better Than Inedible Ones?

I've had some significantly tasteless grub in the past, experiences that I have no wish to recall, but these culinary flights of disaster are a basis for understanding the good and bad that can come from the belly of the kitchen.

Considering that South Philly Tap Room has let me down once before, I still respect it as a fine drinking destination. With a new menu that has bumped up the vegetarian fare, I was intrigued by the veggie burger with guacamole. When I'm auditioning a VB, I'm not looking for a stand-in. I'm not your proto veg. If I wanted a real burger, we wouldn't be here right now.

It suffices to say, I do have needs.

A sandwich that is so-so, barely memorable, filler? In a foodie town, you have to do better.

The Burg at SPTR is akin to a black bean patty, with a bland dollop of guacamole that barely registers. It's not bad, but it's indifferent. The poutine was something I had to try, a ponderous pile of junk that I've had in Montreal (the traditional way-gravy & cheese curds on top of fries) and in NYC (a vegan version at Kate's Joint). SPTR's attempt with mushroom gravy did not even come close, but it was, again, okay. We managed to eat most of it.

There's also a vegetarian Frito Pie among the appetizers, that will most likely break my heart and not best my Frito Pie. If it did, I'd retire my recipe immediately.

Being okay is not enough.

South Philly Tap Room, 1509 Mifflin St., 215.271.7787, www.southphiladelphiataproom.com

Vegan Soft Serve That Doesn't Suck

Not only does Benna's 2 dole out pressed-to-order juices and smoothies, they've got your summer covered with vegan soft serve. It's tasty, too, not like the ice-crystallized stuff you're used to. Not quite on par with the real thing or the creamy flavors hanging out at Govinda's, but you know the deal. The space is airy, with plenty of seating, and stocks vegan gold from North Port Fishington Cookie Factory (donuts, cookies) and Vegan Treats (whoopie pies, brownies), but back to the ice cream. They have cones and sprinkles, but convince them to make you a shake with vegan cookies in it. No, go ahead, this doesn't happen every day.

B2, Passyunk & Dickinson

Veg Out: The Sexy Green Truck

What is happening to roach-coach culture? There's now an organic food cart on Temple's campus, and it's called The Sexy Green Truck. I've always been pretty pleased with my school's veggie efforts (tofu tempanyaki, falafel, tofu wraps, veggie steaks & burgers, Qdoba, and my all-time fave: the grilled 3 cheese on potato bread at the Barnes & Noble Cafe), but none of them come across as healthy or conscious. I accept it and carry fruit with me (the fruit cart always has mealy, anti-delicious apples), or I feed off of the spirits of unbroken collegians.

Due to unfortunately-scheduled finals, I needed to refuel. I came across a new contender in the food cart wars. Painted green, the SGT teased me with iced green tea, organic salads and sandwiches, and cutesy wooden tables.

My red pepper hummus pita included bits of mozzarella, carrots, sprouts, tomatoes, and cucumbers. They also had a Green Sandwich, Tabbouleh Pita, and healthy-ish sides like Sweet Potato Crisps. Grub was cheap--$3.50 for a sandwich, $5 for a meal with a side and an iced tea. They only gave me one napkin--sustainability is hot stuff--but that was all I needed. Light, wholesome brain food that I could feel sexy about.

Coffee Fanatic's Field Guide

Before you enjoy another caffeinated soy beverage, do consult this book. I bought mine at Fante's, but you can order it on the website.

Los Jalapeños: Beyond The Guac

Now the guacamole burrito is still the ultimate in good times--avocado actually means testicle to the Aztecs--but the cactus salad at Los Jalapeños, with its meaty strips of cactus flower, is a light and refreshing source of the fertility fruit as well. They do go overboard with the cilantro, however.

Even though testicles play a crucial role in life, do not forget melons. Melons and melons are just as satisfying.




Taqueria Los Jalapeños, 1800 S. 4th St., 215-468-1828

Update: Black Truffle Lentils or Tofu Pierre?

Beer Lass has the menu for Jose Pistola's Vegetarian Beer Dinner, which shows us two things:

The meatless pairings are largely uninspired and come across as a money-saving way for Iron Hill and Pistola's to lean out to the lacto-ovo veg drinker. That'd be me.

Vegans should spring for the Pierre Robert Wine Dinner at Horizons. City Paper has revealed Rich Landau's dish for the evening: pan-roasted "tofu Pierre" with sautéed morel mushrooms and fava beans in white wine with fennel leek ravioli and potato ramp broth. Don't forget to try the Pierreno.

Both dinners are on Tuesday. Toss a coin if you must.

Veg Out: Little Havana

Or Old City, Philadelphia. Maybe I'll never get to you, Cuba, but I can brunch the part.

I've never considered dining at Cuba Libre. Admittedly, they don't have much to offer us. A glance at their Tropical Brunch menu for some CP research, and I was intrigued.

Cuban coffee with steamed coconut milk? Ay dios mio. The bread basket arrived with thin slices of crisp toast and mango butter. I almost didn't need my Huevos Enchilados after that.

I was expecting more of a wow factor with those huevos, but I've had better at dimly-lit pubs and taquerias where you just know that some 8-year-old kid is making your food in a basement where they hold live chickens. I didn't find it satisfying enough and I wasn't even hung over. My arepas were inconsistent, one was charred to a steadfast crisp that I could not knife through, the other was soft and cheesy and, most importantly, edible.

I felt like I was in Old City.

I was.

Great coffee, lukewarm everything else.

Cuba Libre, 10 S 2nd St, www.cubalibrerestaurant.com

And of course, the reason for being:

Top 5 Latin Brunches

Breakfast of Champions: Bread & Banana Lemon Butter

You never can tell what you'll walk away with from the Headhouse Square Farmer's Market.

I gained a newfound appreciation for Hoots & Hellmouth, the opening day entertainment. It may have been the Peruvian coffee and the fragile, almond-encrusted croissant that I made short work of, perched on the curb in a street studded with crust punks. The Square itself was jammed with foodites rapidly filling their tote bags. The vendor for Talula's Table, the country's most hard-to-get reservation, was slammed with sample-seekers, but I was more enthralled by Versailles Bakery.

The Collingswood bread artisans specialize in french loaves and pastries. I picked up a slender multigrain baguette, along with the aforementioned croissant, and a sticky peach tart. The syrupy glaze dripped through the bag. I think it's pathetic that I think back to Paris whenever I judge pastry, like some lovesick little girl named Madeleine, but I do. I know there's an official french name for this not-quite-pie-tart-galette, but I've lost it.



My rarest find of the day was Banana Lemon Butter from S&S Kitchens. Even banana butter would have seduced me, but try to sell me the odd coupling of bananas and lemons? I'm yours. I gave my baguette wand an encouraging look.

"The bananas made it too sweet, so I added lemon," baker Sue Totino explained.

The aroma was so enticing that I knew it'd be good. The consistency was more jam-like than apple butter. It would make a perfect topping for waffles, pancakes, and breakfast breads. Spread onto simple bread, which cut the sweetness, I was fully convinced.

Every Sunday at Headhouse Square, 10 AM-2 PM, 2nd & Lombard

Upcoming: Veggie Alcoholix Aux

Two upcoming veg dinners happen to fall on the same night. Which one will I see you at?

The first is the Horizons Wine & dine with WMMR's Pierre Robert. Chef Rich Landau will whip up a dish for the vegan deejay, who is a proud lover of tofu and 'shrooms. I'm more curious about the recent additions to the menu, among them the Picnic Starter: bourbon glazed seitan with baby corn, black eyed peas, potato salad, watermelon, and pickles. Last night a DJ saved my life. Tues., May 13, 7-9:30pm. Call for reservations, www.horizonsphiladelphia.com

Or hit up Jose Pistolas for the Vegetarian Beer Dinner with Iron Hill. Tues., May 13, $65, tickets are limited, www.josepistolas.com

Veg Out: Burrito Brew

A burrito is a wondrous thing: a meal that carries itself and is a gift of many ingredients. My burrito kick has led me to a few disappointments, but I am generally pleased, and oftentimes, I am floored by the complexity of these filled-to-bursting wrappered delights. Best of all, I AM NOT ALONE IN MY QUEST.

Burrito Club Philly
Burrito Eater

The level of meatless burritos in Philly astounds me. I wish more of them were served in foil wrappers for authenticity. I hope that one day, people will be less intimidated and simply dig in with burrito abandon, save the fork for when they're wearing a white suit.

Burritos end up in the strangest of places. Behold this: Burrito Brew at Old City Coffee. During the first week of May, Cinco de Mayo-ers and coffee drinkers alike can blend their causes. The Church St. location debuts their new spring/summer menu with a vegetarian bean and farmhouse cheddar burrito. Along with that they feature a special Guatemala brew. Uncommon coffeeshop fare is seldom worth checking out unless you're a bean-drinker, but I highly recommend both. What really made this burrito extraordinary was the side of chipotle sour cream.

And yes, I used a fork.

Old City Coffee, 221 Church St

Veg Out: Memphis Taproom

Pubs keep opening. People continue bickering about them on messageboards. Philly crowds are consistently tough to please. A girl that's genuinely curious about the simple pleasures of food walks into the Memphis Taproom and doesn't care about any of that.

I certainly have my loyalties, places where I feel more comfortable than others, where not all bar food is deep-fried and slicked with salt. Trying new places, to me, is about easing my restless nature and learning my land. It's not about scooping things or being ahead of the game. Even if that's what makes me a journo.

The nice thing is, I've only heard raves about the place.

When I first went to Memphis Tap, they were mostly out of food because of crowds, but there were veggie burgers, and I was appeased. Readers of this know what my first question was. Yes, they are made on Memphis Street. I'm going to pledge to you right now, that I will never eat another veggie burger unless it is made on the very same street that it is served. There. Other meat subs don't count, as they require a higher degree of genius to manufacture.

It was a substantial burger. I figured that my lettuce and tomato came from Greensgrow Farms up the block. This soothed me. No iceberg here. Stacks of fries were crisp and golden, I'm not a fan enough of the revered french fry to be judgmental. Typing that just made me remember the bar on Cedar and Huntingdon with a side window where you could order food. Fries were $1, served in a packet. They made me care about fries. But that's another post.

I didn't have my heart set on a veggie burger, but it was nice to get that crucial element out of the way. I came back for round 2. I took on the ALT, an avocado bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwiched on toast. This was some toast, because it was spread with a brown sugar mayo that sounds like it had no right being in this particular club. Incredible. It lended a barbecue flavor to the ALT, and took what would have been a reliable vegan standby and gave it attitude. Plus, avocado on anything is dope as fuck. I realize that it's sort of a pricier ingredient to work with, but I don't see it on menus often enough. Listen, I need avocado. It's a thing.

I ran into Mike Landers, mayor of vegan doughnuts, who was just dropping off a supply of cookies for the dessert menu. Before I knew it, I was eating a trio of sandwich cookies: peanutbuttapeanutbutta, chocochocomousse, and oatmeal creme pie. Entirely vegan and kick-in-the-ass delicious to boot. Word is, a vegan cake is on the way from another nearby baker, as well as Stock's poundcake, which could NEVER EVER be vegan. It's still the finest poundcake that exists.

I'm not yet at the inner core of the meatless motherload on tap at Memphis. Or the beer itself. That's why I'll head back, eat my way through it, drink on as the 25 bus rolls by in its obnoxious-but-musical way. Try arriving at the same time the Kenzinger truck pulls up. It's a good sign.

Memphis Taproom, 2331 E. Cumberland at Memphis, www.memphistaproom.com

Cinco De Mayo Con Kelly: 'Ritas and Frita Pie

Cinco de Mayo is, without question, my choice holiday. It doesn't matter that I observe my Mexican pride & heritage every single weekend. Come the fifth of May, I'm ready to do it all over again.

Anybody can make a watered-down margarita, but it takes a real hombre to mix one with extra kick:

Lolita, 106 S 13th St, buy their marg mix at Grocery, 101 S 13th St
Cantina, 1651 E Passyunk Ave
Jose Pistolas, 263 S 15th St
Azure, 931 N 2nd St
Xochitl, 408 S 2nd St

For home-cantina-made, try pomegranate margaritas.

Do not even consider drinking without prepping your system via copious amounts of guac. Do make your own, as bad guac will only offend you, and there is nothing better than coming home in those wee hours of May 6 to a back-up stash of it.

Basic Guac


Frita Pie

1 bag of Fritos (or corn chips, BBQ works nicely if you can find 'em)
1 can of beans (any kind, but I like refried)
1 package of Morningstar Farms Crumbles
1 package of shredded cheddar cheese
1 packet of taco seasoning
1/2 can of crushed tomatoes, optional
Sour cream, optional
Jalapenos, optional

Layer a casserole dish with 1/2 bag of Fritos.

Defrost your Crumbles. Mix beans, tomatoes, and Crumbles with taco seasoning in a bowl. Add mixture to casserole dish. Top with jalapenos.

Sprinkle liberally with cheese, more Fritos, and then a final blanket of cheese.

Bake for 45 minutes. Impress your friends. Serves 9.

Dessert? Is your marg not refreshing enough? You're a real libertine.



Kelly Lime Pie

1 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup lime juice, about 6 limes
1 container frozen whipped topping, thawed (vegan works)
1 graham cracker pie crust (make your own)
lime zest

Beat milk and lime juice with electric mixer on medium speed until smooth.

Fold in whipped topping.

Spoon lime mixture into pie crust.

Cover and refrigerate about 1 hour or until set.
Garnish with grated lime.

Mexican Chocolate Cake

My papi would be so proud.