In The Kitchen With Kelly: Winter BBQ

BBQ Tempeh on a LeBus bun. My recipe was basic stuff, but here's a much better one to try:

BBQ Baked Tempeh

FYI

Veg Out: Bindi

Adam Erace is one of the defter writers in the PHL food crit scene. His synopsis of Bindi was a clever ode to the dash, and heightened my already-budding curiosity of the new-ish Indian BYOB. While clearly an issue with those who like to plan ahead, I'm glad that Bindi doesn't accept reservations on weekends, allowing me to call last-minute and inquire on empty tables. By the time we got there, a crowd of eaters was just starting to pack into the tight, drafty space. There was a small corner table waiting for us, inches away from another group. Talk about intimacy.

Bindi seems so intent on appearances that the cuisine itself is often an afterthought. Each dish was sent to the table with a thoughtful aesthetic approach. Even though everything was presented quite ornately, tastes fell flat. Spices were present but not overwhelming. Dual notes are meant to add lingering flavor, but forgettable appetizers were followed by equally so-so entrees.

A serving of Lentil Bread was a flat, uninteresting pancake. Sarsoon-saag Paneer arrived in a small silver platter, but the portion was filling enough that I only got through half. The nutty cashews gave the smooth spinach puree some depth and the satisfying chunks of cheese balanced the slight kick. I could have done without the meaty mushrooms. I wasn't thrilled.

The dessert menu was lacking the Cardamom Cake mentioned in reviews. Luckily, I was intrigued by the Kulfi, a duo of house-made ice creams shaped like cones. Presentation, of course, was deceiving. Both flavors were hard rather than creamy, because of the execution, but the Goat Cheese was more exciting and had a longer-lasting impact than the Berry Almond. The too-large bowl they were served in made it difficult to spoon the ice cream. As we passed Capogiro on our way back, we regretted not holding out for some respectable gelato.

Bindi
105 S 13th St
215-922-6061
www.bindibyob.com

Veg Out: The Ugly American

Your meal at Pennsport's latest pub will begin like this. It's not often that a diner recalls the first course over the final, but the house-baked biscuits are a strong start. These biscuits draw raves all around the table, nests of buttermilky layers with a crisp crown with whipped honey butter that are gone in seconds.

Service is impressive, considering that the soft-lit and spacious restaurant is so new. We are seated by large windows that frame the separate dining area, opposite its exposed brick walls. Tables are set with white tablecloths topped with brown sheets of paper. This is ambience with attitude.

We consider the macaroni and cheese entree, but can't justify a $16 price tag. I pick a mushroom po boy, a load of creamy goat cheese, wilted greens, and delicate truffled mushroom balls. Each mushroom is cleverly separated by a homemade potato chip. Macaroni salad and fries are both better-than-average. A little taste of everything is what always seals a meal for me.



A round of dessert brings dishes of ice cream, dark chocolate mousse, and carrot cake to the table. Intrigued by the apple pie and a bourbon pecan cake with raisin cream, my decision of carrot cake seems like the wrong choice. It comes straight from an icebox and all I can taste are the crushed pecans that coat the cream cheese frosting. The cake itself is a tasteless brick. My cakeist standards are not met. That said, I'm willing to bet the regular desserts have more promise. Or maybe I'll just end on another biscuit high.



The Ugly American, 1100 South Front Street, 215.336.1100, www.uglyamericanphilly.com

Veg Out: Honey's Sit N Eat

I blame Honey's for founding the Brunch Hype of Philadelphia. While stuffed french toast was earning a reputation at Sabrina's in Queen Village, it was still a do-able spot on Sundays. Everybody else was content with predictable egg-y breakfasts at diners and street carts. I don't think we understood the science of brunching until those homestyle Tex-Jew plates were sent out laden with biscuits and trailed by glasses of fresh juice in a ghetto above Spring Garden. This was perpetrated by a mass exodus of peoples who fled to Northern Liberties. They slept late and demanded food that looked pretty and had little to do with Philadelphia. A neighborhood and a weekend trend was set firmly in place.

Every time I revisit Honey's, I wait in purgatory for a table or hope to snipe a counter seat. I also end up trying something different and not regretting a thing. Among the many veg decisions to be made, I was curious about the tofu rancheros, a compromise on huevos that is reached with tofu scramble and drizzled with guac and tofu sour cream. I added a side of veggie sausage patties, mostly because they taste best when someone else makes them and there's no way around that.

Honey's, 800 N. 4th St., 215-925-1150

Neon Cheesecake For Your Vegan Raver Needs

Does this Lemon Blackberry vegan cheesecake glow in the dark or is it the intense flash on my camera phone? Lotus Cake Studio's creations aren't always labeled as vegan because most omnis wouldn't know the difference and baker Vedika would prefer that they didn't. You'll know it's one of her masterpieces because she tops each slice with an artisan dairy-free chocolate. I ate mine first, because it detracts from our dayglo theme. I don't even mess with the real thing anymore. It's available at both Higher Grounds and Red Hook.

Gastropubbin'

Two of my stand-by gastropubs are no secret: The Abbaye and The Royal.

What really puts the two up top is that the service is extraordinary. Every time I go, I luck out with a charming server who goes the extra mile by presenting wit along with my plate. Both of which I find to be necessary things.

I took my first brunch at the Abbaye and swore that I would order something besides the surreal seitan cheesesteak. Complimentary mini muffins are a touch specific to the Abbaye brunch and are delivered to each table. They're honestly the best muffins around, too, even if they are tiny. I cut into the challah french toast, which didn't sound like anything special, unless you know that challah is an unfuckwithable force of deliciousness. I was quite pleased with it. My partners went with the buttermilk pancakes, which were small, almost like silver dollars, and the vegetarian chili, and both elicited a thumbs up.

The Royal has a portabello panini that I finally decided to try. They know how to make a sandwich. They also excel in serving that same sandwich. No complaints. All pleasure.

It's also nice that after a full house at The Royal Tavern, privacy can be found at La Golosa just down the street. I'm still not sure that many people know about this place, as I always have it to myself when I stop in. If you need a piece of high-percentage chocolate or a soul-building, body-shocking jolt of rich cocoa, do it. Need a hunk of velvety cake? Do it more. And take someone that you want to do it with, with you.